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DCASonex wrote:You also need to leave a missing rivet for the FAA inspector to find. :-)

David A.

Ironically I found 4 missing under the wings on the vertical face of the lower longerons. Hard to see with the polish I guess.

I had asked about forming nylaflow in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2887

I took a crack at it and it came out ok.


Here is what it looks like with the fairing on.

Good day today. We completed our fuel flow test.


Our 3 point attitude was about 8.4 degrees. On the hill we were about 16.5 degrees.

From 4 to 3 gallons 24.3 GPH average
From 3 to 2 gallons 18.7 GPH average
From 2 to 1 gallon 14.2 GPH average
From 1 to empty 11.4 GPH average



Before we rolled it back inside we did a radio check, got a loud and clear. Two squawks: 1) the pilot and copilot PTT buttons are swapped and 2) the nav/com audio switch is backwards.


After we rolled it back inside we filled and bled the brakes. They work.
Then we went for a motorcycle ride. Now it is time for pizza.

Looking great Bryan, nice to see it outside!

Thanks Ryan, we are getting there. Here is my punch list:


I did a bunch of little stuff last night. I swapped the pilot & copilot PTT connectors. I swapped the labeling on my com/nav audio switch because I don't want to work on the panel. That would be hard to get to. I connected the fuel line to the aerocarb, which was a chore. I had to drop the carb off the manifold to get the fitting to thread properly. And, I put on the tiedowns.

I really like that tie-down, what's on the back side?

I'd like to know too. I had to relieve the skin around the tiedown because of the gap between the skin and support bracket. Did you use a spacer or did I misplace my bracket?

I also had to cut a hole slightly larger than the tie down. Otherwise it would have dimpled the skin.

I'll take a picture when I'm back over - if I remember. I had one spacer in my box o' parts but couldn't find the second one. I think there is some sort of angle bracket under the skin that bolts to the spar. The hole is close to the radius so the spacer is required. I made a second one and I just bolted it down - no drama, no dimples. It was all done to the plans though, I don't think I invented anything here.

Note the spacer is on top of the bracket, and not between the bracket and the skin. The bracket is pretty flush on the skin.

I remembered. Gold Star for Bryan.


The bracket is flush with the bottom of the spar. Therefore the skin lays flat on it.

Flat pattern for compass mount:


The most dangerous tool known to man:


Years ago a buddy make me these #6 flush screws with a 1/16" hole down the middle. I used them to locate holes on my hummelbird tank cover.


I used them to transfer holes from the compass to the part. Note the two drill bits sticking up are to keep alignment.


Ready to bend:


I have an 8' tennsmith. I didn't feel like taking the bicycle across the field to use the EAA pan and box brake. I did the first two bends on the tennsmith, then bent the two flanges with flanging pliers, and finally made a buck out of a 2x4 for the last bend.


I riveted it together and did a trial fit. I've figured out how I'll mount it to the windshield bow. The windshield is held on to the bow by #8 flush screws. The bow is solid, 1/2" diameter, and has a tapped hole drilled all the way through. I've ordered some longer flush brass screws. I'll replace the middle steel flush screw with a longer brass one. There is a hole in the top of the bracket, and the longer screw will stick out like a stud. Then I can put a nut on it to hold the compass. Plus I'll make a bracket to tie it to the canopy sealing surface.