SonexBuilders.net

If the slop you're talking about is between the prop and hub...seek professional help. If it's internal, it could simply be the bearing clearances, rings swapping sides of their grooves, or the flywheel-to-thrust bearing clearance (in this case, the beveled timing gears allow the crank to move fore and aft before anything else moves).

I'm Thinking it's between the prop and the hub. Is this something an A+P could look at?

John

Johns wrote:I'm Thinking it's between the prop and the hub. Is this something an A+P could look at?

John

Find one with grey hair, or an antiquer...they'd be more likely to have recent/decent knowledge of wood props..Find a Sensenich authorized prop shop and call them.
I've been an airplane mechanic going on sixty three years, but am not authorized to work on a prop, so all I do is look, say "OMG" and call the prop experts. I'll say it here; call the experts!

As an aside, can you give us pics/video? The more we know the better off we are.

Ed
N???NX
Onex 209, tentatively called the Kahki Kyak
Just east of Graceland

Ed, I'm thinking of the force one prop hub, not the prop itself. That might be part of the engine.

John

Johns wrote:Checked the tracking and have about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Instructions call for 1/8 inch.

That's way out of limits! Fix that before you worry about much else.

mike.smith wrote:

Johns wrote:Checked the tracking and have about 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Instructions call for 1/8 inch.

That's way out of limits! Fix that before you worry about much else.

AGREED!

I have a t4 with a special crank from SCAT , the nose was left un machined from them, it was then done to match the f1 hub . I had to replace the oil seals and it took ALL of a 12ton press to break it loose, I then lapped with valve fine compound to make sure, then the crank went in the freezer the hub in the sun 120deg outside then put it all back together, I don't expect it come off without a fight . pete212