Aileron control rod/bell crank rigging

[Skippydiesel]

You don't necessarily need to tighten the lock nuts with the control rod in situ. I would suggest adjusting it to the correct length and then removing the rod to tighten the interior lock nut. If you need to make any further minor adjustments you can do it on the external rod end. As far as preventing the bell crank from moving from its 25° position, it should be possible to clamp the far end of the long push rod against the spar using a G clamp and some suitable padding.

Peter

Hi Peter - Tightening lock nuts - that's exactly what I did.

Future adjustment in situ - if not impossible, very close to it. The adjustment of the short rod can only be done once the locks are loose. Loosening in situ may just be possible on the leading ball joint lock nut BUT the whole shebang must be removed for final tightening.

Yes your clamping of the long control rod could work - probably best with the help of an assistant. If I have to do further "tweaking" will give your suggestion a go. Thanks.

[Skippydiesel]

Son made up the 25 degree thin wedge for me.

Previous effort very close but needed some minor adjustment to be "spot on". All done now!

[Tony4aro]

[q.......
The difficulty is getting the 25 degrees -Its hard to measure in such a confined space and once measured, easy to knock out of position. I have done it now but to double check will get my Son to make up a 25 degree spacer in his 3D printer.

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If you can share the model... I would love to have it. I'm just getting read to do this to my Waiex. (I can print my own spacer) Thanks

[Skippydiesel]

You don't necessarily need to tighten the lock nuts with the control rod in situ. I would suggest adjusting it to the correct length and then removing the rod to tighten the interior lock nut. If you need to make any further minor adjustments you can do it on the external rod end. As far as preventing the bell crank from moving from its 25° position, it should be possible to clamp the far end of the long push rod against the spar using a G clamp and some suitable padding.

Peter

Yep! that's pretty much what I have done, except:

On my Sonex its not possible to adjust the rod in situ & lock it. You can adjust in situ, with one or both lock nuts loose but the rod must be removed to tighten one/both lock nuts.
I have come to the conclusion that the 25 degree adjustment can not be done accurately, without the aid of a 25 degree spacer (my Son made mine using a CAD system and laser printer, he just happens to own).
Clamping the long push rod is not necessary, if you have a 25 degree spacer (I am surprised Sonex dont offer such a simple device).