turtledeck

[sport65]

I have searched the forum for the turtle deck issue I read on a builders website of gaps and waviness, between formers, and found nothing on it. I placed my number 5 former into the turtle deck and see the issue. I was thinking of putting a micro balloon mixture (seems lighter and easier than shims or washers) to fill the gaps and prevent this and was wondering if there was a fix to this I was not aware of ?
I know I can leave it and it will be fine, just looking for something easy, light, and not to time consuming.

[Rynoth]

What is the issue? My Turtledeck went on fine without much fuss and I have no waviness.

[sport65]

This is what I want to avoid.
In placing the former in the turtle deck I can see the former touch the skin between the tabs you drill
through. It needs to touch the skin where I drill through the former, or it will pull the skin to the former,is what I see as the problem.

[rizzz]

How did you install the turtledeck?
It is important to install the turtledeck before you install the formers like so:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 68&row=159
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 87&row=154
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 17&row=153
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 19&row=152
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 91&row=151

First put the turtledeck in place, then the aft former, then the forward formers, then the ones in between, this way you'll be able to position them correctly in order to have minimal bumps and waves.

[gammaxy]

I talked to someone with a scratchbuilt Sonex with no waviness on the turtledeck. He said he took a dowel and tapped from the inside of the fuselage on the turtledeck formers that were giving him waviness. I believe he said he drilled a hole in the end of the dowel that fit around the rivet.

I haven't tried the technique--my skin isn't perfect, but I pushed the formers into position from the inside and they fit pretty well.

[sport65]

Did that. Nothing is riveted yet, that is another builders pic.
I can place the number five former in the skin and see light between the former flange and skin where the rivets will go. Because the former flanges are flat, not curved like the skin, they will contact the skin to the left and right of the rivet hole, creating a gap. When I rivet, the pull of the rivet will pull the skin toward the flange. This will then pull the skin toward the flange and make a dimple in the skin.
So you did not have this issue, and you did nothing different or use spacers?

[sport65]

I like the bending idea. I was trying to think of a way to bend the flanges, but did not think of the dowel rod. I would not have thought you could bend them after riveted. I was trying to do something before it was riveted.

[rizzz]

Did that. Nothing is riveted yet, that is another builders pic.
I can place the number five former in the skin and see light between the former flange and skin where the rivets will go. Because the former flanges are flat, not curved like the skin, they will contact the skin to the left and right of the rivet hole, creating a gap. When I rivet, the pull of the rivet will pull the skin toward the flange. This will then pull the skin toward the flange and make a dimple in the skin.
So you did not have this issue, and you did nothing different or use spacers?

Hmmm sounds like your formers might indeed be a bit odd-shaped, mine were scratch built so I was able to ensure the were nice and round all the way.
You might be able to reshape yours, if not spacers will probably be the solution, I know others have had to do this.

[Mike53]

For what it's worth ,I had a problem with the turtle deck skin to former fit on my Onex and used spacers to fill the void.It was ok'ed by Kerry and I am pleased with the non dimpled look of the finished skin.
If you scroll through to near the end of this page you will see the spacers I used http://www.onexmike.org/fuselage-f22-to-f14.html .I think this will work and look better than trying to re bend each tab on the formers unless the space is minimal.I tried it on a few tabs and gave up right away.Go to your local metal market and buy 1 foot lengths of 6061 1/2" wide in as many thicknesses as they carry up to 1/4" thick then it is easy to find the proper or darned close fit between the former and skin.predrill a 1/8" hole and I used longer rivets where needed.
Worked for me. ;)

[sport65]

For what it's worth ,I had a problem with the turtle deck skin to former fit on my Onex and used spacers to fill the void.It was ok'ed by Kerry and I am pleased with the non dimpled look of the finished skin.
If you scroll through to near the end of this page you will see the spacers I used http://www.onexmike.org/fuselage-f22-to-f14.html .I think this will work and look better than trying to re bend each tab on the formers unless the space is minimal.I tried it on a few tabs and gave up right away.Go to your local metal market and buy 1 foot lengths of 6061 1/2" wide in as many thicknesses as they carry up to 1/4" thick then it is easy to find the proper or darned close fit between the former and skin.predrill a 1/8" hole and I used longer rivets where needed.
Worked for me. ;)

That is the problem all right. Having made spacers else ware. I was thinking I would simply use a syringe and inject micro balloon resin in the pilot holes, fill the voids, allow to dry, then drill through normally. That way the void is filled precisely, and hopefully easier than shims. Shims will be my backup plan if I don't learn of anything better.
Thanks