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Chris. Now I get what you did. I am going to look into an automotive breaker panel and see what I think. Definitely could save some money.

Jeff. Since I don't have any steam gauges I want to have just the EFIS/SP6/RDAC on prior to engine start but want everything off. This will allow the EFIS to boot up so when I start I immediately have my engine stats. That's part of the reason I put is on the main bus, not the avionics bus.

Lots to think about for sure. I'm trying to balance my desire to have a loaded up panel with practicality. I probably have already gone overkill, but held off my original shopping list which contained dual Garmin G3X 7" in a custom panel with full IFR certification. I'd love for it to be IFR but the cost was just ridiculous for the Garmin panel...even the single 7". I think the EFIS lite with iPad as a backup, weather, traffic, xm radio and ads-b in/out is more than enough to VFR me around the country.

I just hope it's enough to get me to Cuba...I want to be there in 2016 with my Sonex when it open up. :)

Did a little rework on the wiring. All of my parts are in and looking for any input before I begin this phase of the journey. I am not 100% confident on my wires in/out of the master solenoid. I am happy with my switches and everything else. Any final thoughts?

Josh, this one looks way better. Just be sure that your wires have circuit breakers that are appropriate to their AWG. One potential problem I see is your 35A breaker/fuse between the master contactor and the Master bus. For a 35A breaker you'd need at least 10AWG, and for a 35A fuse it would take 8AWG. If you're planning to run this thick of wire through the firewall then it should be fine (though I'd put the fuse/breaker on the forward side of the firewall.)

Josh

I wouldn't run the starter solenoid through the master contactor. For the starter power cables, I would go direct battery / solenoid / starter. You could then reduce the size of the wire from the battery to master / regulator etc.

What Ryan says is correct, never use a fuse size that is greater than what is specified for the AWG size.

Steve
Sonex 892

The starter solenoid should be after the master solenoid. If the starter solenoid is direct to the battery it will always be live and will turn the prop if some one accidentally hits the starter button. The master should be just that and shut down all power.

Thanks guys. Based on the below chart and my measured run the 16 should be good. But I could go 14 to be safe. Unless I'm missing something else. Do airplanes have different requirements? Bill, I agree. Especially with my little girls, I don't want them to accidentally kick it over.

wlarson861 wrote:The starter solenoid should be after the master solenoid. If the starter solenoid is direct to the battery it will always be live and will turn the prop if some one accidentally hits the starter button. The master should be just that and shut down all power.

I just assumed everyone would use a key switch in series with the starter button to prohibit accidental starting.

The standard key switches won't work with the Aerovee. The standard switch grounds the Mags so they are off and un-grounds when on. The electronic ignition needs to be on when running and off (open) when off. The standard way to do this is to have separate switches for the two ignitions. The mags are off when grounded and the electronics are on when powered. therefor no power to the starter without the master on.

I also have a keyed master switch that lets me kill the whole system when the key is off and removed. This lets me leave the canopy open with out worrying that someone will energize the system and swing the prop and potentially hurting someone.

Bill,

What type of keyed switch did you use for the master switch? I have been thinking about using a keyed switch for quite some time now and figure it is time to put one in. My problem is I have not been able to find one that I consider robust and reliable enough. I appreciate any suggestions.

Jake