This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

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This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby WesRagle » Fri Aug 31, 2018 11:56 am

Hi Guys,

The Onex is starting to look a little like an airplane. It is getting to the point that I would like to finish something. I'm sure you guys know the feeling.

So, I would like to start from the tail and work my way forward and, to the largest extent possible, finish before I move on.

Right now I need to:

1) Finish the tail fairings.
2) Pull the tail, polish, paint, drill for hing pins, re-install, torque, and move on.

That leaves me with a couple of unanswered questions.

1) Since there are some *very* important bolts back there I would like to have a torque wrench that I totally trusted. Does anyone know of a high quality, compact, torque wrench suitable for AN3 and AN4 size bolts? I have three junk/garage sale torque wrenches and don't trust any of them.

2) Since I am polishing the plane there won't be a lot of painting. I really don't want to go the route of two part epoxy paint. Can someone point me to a good rattle can "process"? Maybe Duplicolor? Perhaps an article on how to achieve good results with rattle can paint?

Thanks for Your Time,

Image
Wes Ragle
Onex #89
Conventional Gear
Long Tips
Hummel 2400 w/Zenith Carb
Prince P Tip 54x50
First Flight 06/23/2020
42.8 Hrs. as of 10/30/21
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby kmacht » Fri Aug 31, 2018 12:50 pm

Your best bet is to get a beam style torque wrench for the lower torques that AN 3 and 4 bolts require. You want a wrench where your torque is not in the bottom 20% or upper 10% of the wrenches range. Clicker style wrenches can be accurate but are not typicaly repeatable at the lower torques these small bolts require. Thet will normally over torque the bolt beyond your target. I ran a large torque wrench study at my work (jet engine manufacturer) and the only clicker styles that were accurate at lower torque ranges were the digital ones that vibrate and beep when the torque is reached. The one that Snap on sells for about $450 scored really well for the money. Beam wrenches no matter the manufacturer all did just as well or better than the snap on digital wrench. They also dont lose calibration like a clicker can. The key is to choose one with the right range, hold it correctly when applying the load, and make sure you are looking directly at the scale and not off at an angle. With all that being said, none of the torques on a sonex are that critical. A beam wrench from sears is what I used on my build.

Keith
#554
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby Bryan Cotton » Fri Aug 31, 2018 1:56 pm

Regarding rattle cans, I just scuff-n-squirt. I am using Rust-Oleum.
Bryan Cotton
Poplar Grove, IL C77
Waiex 191 N191YX
Taildragger, Aerovee, acro ailerons
dual sticks with sport trainer controls
Prebuilt spars and machined angle kit
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby lstinthot » Fri Aug 31, 2018 4:06 pm

I took my torque wrenches in to work and tested them. I have all clicker style. 2 of them did not pass but they showed signs off abuse over the years ( they were garage sale finds)

One that surprised me was the digital one from harbor freight a guy asked me to test. I would have not believed it but it was extreamly accurate.

Mike
Scratch building #1604
Tail dragger
Thinking Turbo Aerovee
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby mike.smith » Fri Aug 31, 2018 5:09 pm

On rattle can paint:
- I used Rustoleum and it worked well. After 4 years outside, the cowl paint is fading though, but it's nor horrible. The wing and tail tip paint is still in great shape, so I think it's the heating of the cowl that makes it age prematurely. I plan to repaint it someday.
- My biggest input: Do NOT use clear coat over your paint!!! I did and it was a big mistake. It's NOT necessary, and after a time the clear coat cracks. And then it's impossible to touch up a paint job that has a clear coat. Put an extra 2 coats of paint on, instead. It's a lot easier to fix or touch up later on.
- Paints like Rustoleum have solvents in them. If you paint multiple coats with a short time between them (like within in hour) you'll be OK. But if you wait several hours or a whole day, and then put on more coats, the paint will crinkle and orange peel. You'll have to strip off all the paint and start over, then. Ask me how I know!! But if you wait a full 72 hours between spraying you won't have that problem.
- Use a snap-on spray handle like this: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 110&row=22
- For the cowl and wheel pants I built a spray both of PVC pipes, plastic and duct tape. I did not ventilate it. I wore a respirator and limited myself to just a few minutes at a time. I'd spray a full coat, exit and let the paint settle, enter and do a second coat, and so on. Change filters often.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 493&row=10
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_l ... 8940&row=3

TEST EVERYTHING ON A SMALL PART OR PARTS!!

Other helpful hints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTR ... re=related
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MsVWj3 ... re=related
Mike Smith
Sonex N439M
Scratch built, AeroVee, Dual stick, Tail dragger
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby builderflyer » Sat Sep 01, 2018 9:10 am

Hi Wes,

1. If one of your torque wrenches has the proper range for your intended use, consider calibrating it yourself. It's not difficult to do, just takes a little time, and then you'll be sure as to its accuracy.

2. I really like the Duplicator spray paints from NAPA auto parts. First, they are acrylic enamels which are easy to work with and polish and wax beautifully. Second, these spray cans come with the fancy nozzle that is adjustable for a horizontal or vertical spray pattern. So if you attach an available handle to the can, they're more like using a real spray gun than a rattle can.

Have fun,

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby Concorde » Sat Sep 01, 2018 9:37 am

[quote="builderflyer"]Hi Wes,

1. If one of your torque wrenches has the proper range for your intended use, consider calibrating it yourself. It's not difficult to do, just takes a little time, and then you'll be sure as to its accuracy.

+1
Ben
Sonex # 1684
Tri-Gear, Dual Control
Rotax 912uls
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby DCASonex » Sat Sep 01, 2018 1:34 pm

In addition to what Keith stated, if one of your el-cheapo small wrenches is the proper torque range, seems to be consistent, is a practical size for what you want, and you want to use it for just two bolt sizes, calibrate it. Inch pounds or foot pounds are just what they sounds like. 20 inch pounds can be obtained with a 20 pound weight hanging on a 1" torque arm, or a one pound weight on a 20" arm. Easiest to just put a common wench on your torque wrench fitting so that it is horizontal, measure the length to where you will hang the weight, and calculate the weight needed for desired torque.. Then just note setting at which it clicks with that weight. Repeat for second bolt size.

David A.
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby radfordc » Sat Sep 01, 2018 2:02 pm

If you can stand to watch me do it, here is a video of how I calibrate and adjust a torque wrench.

https://youtu.be/jdhFqpLJKT8
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Re: This and that (torque wrench and rattle can).

Postby Bryan Cotton » Sat Sep 01, 2018 4:13 pm

Not sure if non-Saturnfans people can see the pictures, but here is my torque wrench check.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showpo ... tcount=163
Bryan Cotton
Poplar Grove, IL C77
Waiex 191 N191YX
Taildragger, Aerovee, acro ailerons
dual sticks with sport trainer controls
Prebuilt spars and machined angle kit
Year 2 flying and approaching 200 hours December 23
User avatar
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