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Here are some hints and tips that I can recall. I should have kept a detailed log but I did not. There are a number of things that, if done exactly by the plans, may not be entirely correct. Of course, it could have been my errors but I have backed up many problems with other builders. The usual solution is to simply make another small part that fit

Thanks Kip,

Jeff Shultz also made a comprehensive list of his "lessons learned", here's the link:
http://www.sonex604.com/lessons_learned.html

At some point I'll also attempt to write a "hints/problems" list that I've came up with, even though I'll be repeating most of Kip's observations. One small item to add (my afternoon project) is that the fiberglass wingtips also don't fit the greatest. I found the forward edge curve of the wing is different than the fiberglass tip so I had to force the tip forward to get an adequate fit.



I'm going to try and help myself out by making my wingtip light mounts removable for interior wing inspections and light replacement.

You can't see it, but on each wingtip I used a 3" hole saw to cut two holes out, and then cut out the rest of the fiberglass to make a 3" X 5" opening under the mount.



I still need to install nutplates for screws and then I can install these for good. Also be prepared to trim some of the lower flange of the tip for better fit. Mine wont be better than a "B" job but they'll work for now!

Yep, forgot to add that Mike. The wingtip size is off enough to have the end of the skins pulled down from the rivets to meet the fiberglass. I have a little stress-crack in my fiberglass from that mismatch.

N111YX wrote:Yep, forgot to add that Mike. The wingtip size is off enough to have the end of the skins pulled down from the rivets to meet the fiberglass. I have a little stress-crack in my fiberglass from that mismatch.

Could you build up some resin on the tip to make up the gap?

N111YX wrote:Yep, forgot to add that Mike. The wingtip size is off enough to have the end of the skins pulled down from the rivets to meet the fiberglass. I have a little stress-crack in my fiberglass from that mismatch.

Yeah I was wondering/worried about that. Mine is sort of the same way for the front 5 or 6 on the top of the tip. I'm hoping that aluminum rivets will be a little "softer" and thus reduce the stress on the fiberglass. If needed down the road I'll add some additional layers of glass. I'm also going to need to add some kind of filler by the notch I had to cut in the upper flange where the main spar is...more fun!

Here is another one: do not locate the WIX-T11-05 clip by lining it up with the forward spar if you have prepunched holes. Cleco the skeleton together, cleco on the skins, then transfer the hole from the hockey stick/ forward spar to the -05 clip. I need a shim now.

Kip, any chance you can repost your list? I'm not able to view it.

I'm not sure what happened to the list. Perhaps it was lost during a site outage. I'm not sure if I have that list but I'll look...

Rynoth wrote:Kip, any chance you can repost your list? I'm not able to view it.

rizzz wrote:Jeff Shultz also made a comprehensive list of his "lessons learned", here's the link:
http://www.sonex604.com/lessons_learned.html

Questions on one of the tips:
"Don't rivet wing attach angles ahead of time. You'll need to remove the rear angle when rigging the wings, and it is very convenient to remove the front angle when working on and riveting the spar tunnel, especially the flush rivets on the inside of the tunnel."

Is that the wing attach angle(s) in the fuselage, or the attach plate on the inboard end of the rear spar?

When I first read that, I immediately thought rear spar attach plate as that is what I happen to be working on right now, but upon re-reading it seems that he is speaking about attach angles in the fuse.